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Merida, The White City
MERIDA, the White City
Few cities around the world can feel proud of the hospitality and warmth of their people, of the unique respect for tradition but open-mindedness for the modern, and their overall love for culture. Merida is one such city and you must see it to believe that such a place exists.
Before becoming what it is today, Merida was known as Ichcaansiho or its abbreviation T'Ho'. Ichcaansiho means Five Hills in the Mayan dialect. The Five Hills was in references to the five pyramids that had been an important part of the Mayan civilization. During its time, T'Ho' was a Mayan central city filled with an array of Mayan activities, but by the time the Spaniards arrived (in the 16th century) it was already abandoned. When the Spaniards arrived only 200 huts made out of palms remained and in them resided a group of malnourished natives. It was three Spanish explorers along with one hundred Spanish families the ones who settled in what was then old Mayan ruins. Its official date of formation is noted as January 6, 1542 and the founder, was known as Francisco de Montejo y Leon "El Mozo" (The Young Man), named it Merida after the city of the same name in Spain. It was very affluent families the ones that established the city and thus, had walls built around it to keep the native indigenous people outside and to protect it from possible Mayan uprisings. Interestingly, Merida was one of the few cities in Mexico that was completely enclosed by walls. Equally interesting is the fact that the stones from the old Mayan ruins were used to build new houses and perhaps even the walls. These colonial buildings and parts of the wall can still be seen today in the historic part of Merida, which is located right in the center of the city. At this point it is important to mention that Merida earned the nickname of "Ciudad Blanca" meaning White City due to the buildings being painted white using "cal" or "lime." As you will see, the city expanded far beyond the once-protecting walls. The 19th century propelled Merida onto the business industry with the production and distribution of henequen, which are agave leaves and are used to make ropes and even liquor. This became known as the "green gold." This increased the wealth of the city and many more wealthy families moved here. Today, the houses of these millionaire families still remain in almost impeccable conditions. In fact, they're mostly found one after the other down Merida's main avenue, Paseo de Montejo. This same century gave way to a "French Wave" of arquitecture, where most mansions and streets were designed after the spacious avenues found in Paris.
Language is extremely important in Merida; the Spanish used in Merida is quite differently than that used elsewhere in Mexico. Merida has retained most of the Spanish accent as well as the Mayan dialect. As a matter of fact, today there are academies dedicated to teaching and exploring the Mayan language. So don't be alarmed when you're strolling through the streets of this great city and hear people switch from Mayan to perfect Spanish. You'll easily recognize the Mayan language because of its strong use of the letter "x," which makes a harsh "sh" sound, along with strong vowel use.
The importance of the city can be noted due to it being host to Pope John Paul II in Agust 1993, two Mexico-US conferences (between Bill Clinton and Vicente Fox and most recently George W. Bush and Felipe Calderon), and two very important science competitions.
Earlier we spoke of the wealthy colonial mansions, which remain today. Some of these have been converted into businesses including restaurants, museums, and hotels. Lucky for you, you'll have the opportunity to stay at one of these historic and quite authentic 19th century haciendas. Hacienda Temozon Sur, Hacienda San Jose Cholul, Hacienda Xcanatun, and Hacienda Santa Rosa de Lima have all become hotels. Not only are these situated right in the center of Merida, but it'll really give you an opportunity to experience what might've been to reside at one of these haciendas. It's almost like staying at a museum.
Without argument, Merida is one of the wealthiest cities in Mexico when it comes to culture. We must begin by introducing the Jarana Yucateca (Yucatecan Revelry). Do not be alarmed by the literal translation of the word Jarana (revelry). In fact, revelry refers to rowdiness, commotion, or hubbub. The Jarana is a typical dance that has been around for generations. It is considered to be a fusion between Mayan and Spanish culture. This dance was actually introduced during colonial times and people keep dancing it to this day. Without noticing you will become enthralled by the joyfulness of the music and the elegance of the steps and dancers' movements. Another staple of the Jarana dance is the outfits worn by the performers. Women wear what is known as they typical "hipil yucateco" or "el terno de gala," meaning dress suit. They must also wear white high heel shoes and a shawl known was "Rebozo de Santa Maria." The men wear white dril trouser (much like white jeans), a white guayabera (a lightweight, button-down shirt with short sleeves, one or two sets of patch pockets, and decorated with an elaborate embroidery made out of silk or linen), a woven hat, red bandana tucked in one of the pants' pockets, and sandals. When you visit, you will have a great many opportunities to witness this cultural spectacle. This Jarana dance is accompanied by an "Orquesta Jaranera" also locally known as "charanga." It is typically comprised of clarinets, trumpets, trombones, timbals, saxhorn and a guiro. Today, the saxhorn has been replaced by a saxophone and a bass has been added. But the orquestra is not exclusive to the Jarana dance. You can also find the orquestra in local city fiestas, spreading the joyful music in vaquerias (like rodeos), or in the bullfights.
Don't worry about missing out on the fun! For instance, every Monday there are Vaquerias, or popular parties with presentations of regional dances, at the Bajos del Palacio Municipal (at the Municipal Palace). If you'd like to indulge in some ‘40s style music then go to Parque de Santiago (Santiago's Park) on a Tuesday night. On Thursday evening you must witness a folkloric celebration of song, dance, and poetry known as Serenata Yucateca (Yucatecan Serenade) taking place at Parque de Santa Lucia (Saint Lucia's Park). If you're looking for good-ol-family fun then visit the event titled En El Corazon de Merida (In the Heart of Merida), where they closed several streets and have family events and entertainment. There's nothing better than going to the Noche Mexicana (Mexican Night) on a Saturday night. Here you'll see art exhibitions and you'll be able buy crafts among other souveneers.
After enjoying the musical displays you'll surely waken your appetitie. Well, lucky you! Merida is distinguished for its culinary delicacies. If you like barbecue pork, I recommend the Mayan/Yucatecan version called Poc Chuc. Queso Relleno (Stuffed Cheese) is considered a gourmet dish composed of ground pork inside a carved cheese ball with tomatoe sauce. Another traditional dish is a lime/chicken soup with shredded chicken and tortillas called Sopa de Lima. Another pork delicacy is Cochinita Pibil and it is the most famous of the Yucatecan dishes. Indeed it is the spices, such as achiote, cinnamon, allspice berries, cloves, oregano, sea salt, peppercorns, cuin seed, and garlic, what make these and an innumerable amount of other typical dishes so incredibly delicious. A few popular places to enjoy all these delicious plates are: Los Almendros (The Almond Tree), El Fogoncito (The Small Furnace), El Argentino (The Argentinean), La Vibora de la Mar (The Serpent of the Sea, named after a popular children's game), and La Habichuela (The Kidney Bean).
Some cultural centers you'll truly enjoy include Centro Cultural Andres Quintana Roo (Cultural Center) where there's an array of galleries and often hosts artistic events; Casa de la Cultural del Mayab (House of the Mayab Culture) which presents a multitude of handcrafts. If Museums is what you like then you have to visit the Museo de Historia Natural (Natural History Museum), Museo de Arte Contemporaneo Ateneo de Yucatan, MACAY, (Museum of Contemporary Art); and Museo de la Cancion Yucateca (Museum of the Yucatecan Song) dedicated to typical Yucatecan music and authors.
No matter what time of year you visit Merida, always wear shorts, comfortable shoes, and sunscreen. The weather here has been known to reach up to 100 degrees farenheit and it dips as low as 65 degrees farenheit. Because Merida is located in the northern part of the Yucatan peninsula, it is within 30 minutes of the Golf of Mexico and within a few driving hours of Cancun. So, just in case, don't forget to pack your bathing suit and extra sunscreen! But you can always visit Merida year round at www.patawalk.com, come see it!
About the Author
I'm an English instructor. I love my career because it allows me to work with students of all ages (from children in kindergarten to mature adults in college) and walks of life. I have a B.A. in English from San Diego State University and have recently obtained my M.A., also in English, from National University. During my free time I travel and write short articles for the Patawalk Virtual Tours website (www.patawalk.com). This site takes visitors into fully mapped virtual tours in 360 formats of amazing places such as Cancun, Mexico. It's like being there!
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